How to Replace the Lift Cable on Your Skamper Popup Camper, Goshen Lift System

Hi All,

I am finally getting around to writing this post about how to replace your popup camper lift cable on a 1989 Skamper 240C that uses the Goshen Lift System to apply force to all four corner posts equally. Here is a list of tools and parts that I needed:

• (1) Goshen Lift system aircraft cable (comes with correct length crimps and push plates). SPEND THE $30 ON IT AND SAVE YOURSELF A LOT OF TIME!)
• Carbide Drill Bits, 1/8" to 3/16"
• Standard Ratchets and wrenches.
• (4) New #10-32 x 5/8" long, high strength bolts. I used Black Oxide Socket Head Cap Screws (SHCS) and nuts.
• #10-32 tap
• Extra length of cable, smaller diameter preferably.

Please save yourself some time and frustration and order the lift cable directly from Goshen Metal Stamping, http://www.goshenstamping.com/lift.php.  This was the best $33 I have spent in a long time. First of all it was nice to actually talk to someone, place a COD order with them, and have it show up exactly when it was supposed to. It was a throw back experience to the old days of commerce. I have read other posts about people crimping there own cables but I think I saved myself a ton of time by just ordering the correct part from Goshen. First things first, DO NOT pull your old broken cable out of the camper you will use this to "fish tape" your new cable in!

STEP 1).  I started by jacking up my trailer so I could get under it. I also used the appropriate jack stands under it so I could work safely. Remove the rear push spring brackets at both rear corners of your popup. This proved very hard for me since the old bolts used the a bowtie bit to break them loose. I was only able to get one off and the other three rounded off. This was problematic because the screws were harden and my high speed steel (HSS) drill bits just couldn’t drill out the screws. That's where the carbide drills came into play. The carbide drill cut through them like butter but I kept breaking them since they are brittle but I had a few extras. Here are some pictures:

Skamper Corner Lift Bracket

STEP 2). Remove the (4) bolts that connect the other ends of the rear lift tubes at the master tube. You will then be able to lower the lift tubes and springs from the corner lift tubes and then pull the lift springs out of the master tube.

Skamper Popup with Rear Lift Tubes/Springs Removed

Skamper Rear Lift Springs

STEP 3). Use your old cable, still in your camper, to fish the new one into it. I did this by using a extra length of smaller diameter cable from a broken come-along that I had saved. The cable will only go in and out of the master tube from one direction because of the two crimped stops and the push plates. First take your extra cable and electrical tape it as tight as you can to the end of the broken cable at the front (that is where mine broke). This may take a few tries but pull it through the master tube until you have the taped end at the rear of the camper. Un-tape the old cable and discard, then retape the new cable end to the extra piece of cable now in your master tube. Once that is taped tight pull the new lift cable through the master tube. It will stop at the front lift springs and won't go any more. Now fish the other end of the new cable up through the rear pulley and into the master tube. You will need to keep your rear lift springs/tubes on their correct side and you will also need to run the cable between the springs. Before I reinserted the lift springs I cleaned the old grease off of them with a few old rags. You need to make sure the lift springs are pushing the pusher plate into the top part of the master tube.

New Lift Cable Taped to Extra Fish Cable, Ready to Pull new Cable Through to Crank

STEP 4). Once the rear springs and tubes are inserted back into the rear of the master tube, you will need to re-attach the (4) heavy duty sheet metal bolts. Next you will need to reattach each corner lift bracket. Before I did that I had to make sure the holes were ready. I did this by chased the threaded holes with a #10-32 tap. Once installed I added a #10-32 nut to the back of each screw so I new they would not rattle lose. I also used lock washers in addition to the nuts.

I did this by myself and it took me about 4-5 hours. It helps to have some extra hands but it gave me the time to analyse my moves and not break anything. I should have taken more pictures but its hard when your hands are all greasy and you are tired. I hope this helps.

New Lift Cable Installed.

Here is a link to the PDF of the Goshen Lift System for my camper.

http://www.goshenstamping.com/pdf/1473_SERIES_DIAGRAM-PARTS_LIST.pdf